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Morangos verdes ralados

Por folha
08/10/14 02:00

Moda é moda, todo mundo gosta de estar por dentro, de imitar o que está acontecendo. Por “todo mundo” quero dizer os grandes chefs –porque as pessoas sentadas à mesa ou em frente à televisão continuam comendo feijão com arroz ou uma lasanha congelada numa boa, totalmente alheias às novidades.

O chef premiado apresenta na capa do livro um prato branco tendo no meio um retângulo fino e uma bolota ao lado. Pode ser tudo ou nada. Sem ironia, com certeza é bom.

Como foi que chegou àquela receita? São duas hipóteses. Saiu à procura do milho que seu avô cultivava e depois de muita viagem e pesquisa encontrou. Plantou na chácara que abastece seu restaurante. O mesmo com a cenoura e o tomate e o salsão. Com uma equipe dos sonhos colhe às quatro horas da manhã e, ainda orvalhados, serve à sua clientela no almoço. Tudo quase cru. Intocado, para que ela sinta o gosto que ele sentia quando criança. É um herdeiro de Alice Waters.

O segundo chef nem planta. Cata. É o destemido. Nada que cresça à sua volta lhe é estranho. Diferentemente do outro, trata o ingrediente com furor. Comprime, compacta, estraçalha, arranca, congela, desidrata, coa três vezes, raspa.

O exemplo final está sobre um prato branco forrado de musgo frito. Sobre o musgo um pequeno galho (não comestível), um pedaço de casca de árvore (não comestível), umas pedras (não comestíveis) e pó de cogumelo. Para comer, temos o musgo e o pó de cogumelo.

E há outros pratos com pétalas de rosa em picles, técnicas, processos, equipamentos, métodos. A comida é perseguida, caçada, domada, manipulada, transformada.

Fígados de bacalhau sem a membrana externa, defumados, congelados, fatiados num mandolim gelado. Escamas fritas ao lado. Outro prato pede os espinhos do junípero desidratados e em pó com os galhos do junípero fritos. São servidos em vasos de flores que enfeitam a mesa, com outras flores normais. Pegadinha.

Se tenho inveja? Morro. Não vai dar tempo de aprender o pulo do gato. Por mais que botar a comida de cabeça para baixo. O chef é o primeiro naquela lista da revista “Restaurant”. Acredito nela e nele, e creio que ele testa o conceito de comida. O que é comida? Aquilo com o que nos acostumamos? Que convencionamos? Por que não tentar mudar completamente o conceito?

Mas sinto pena que o Orkut tenha acabado, queria começar um grupo com o nome “Tenho medo de morangos verdes ralados”.

Nos pesadelos mais profundos sobre a busca da essência o que me apavora é ver o chef sair da cozinha de toque (o chapéu do cozinheiro) e, tendo eliminado o prato, que interferia com o alimento, brandir uma colher de pau com um suco verde. E que tampando meu nariz enfie o xarope com o sabor total da paisagem pela minha goela abaixo.

Não é provável. Talvez, sim, se mude para Copacabana atrás do sol e torne-se um viciado em mate e biscoitos de polvilho na praia. Muito estresse naquele gelo.

P.S.: Confesso estar encantada com as pedras no prato. Já pensaram um prato fundo preto com caldo de feijão-preto e uma pedra grande e quente bem no centro?

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