A NOVA COZINHA DA ISLÂNDIA
18/09/14 18:44Haja globalização. Quando você pensa que na Islândia as coisas são diferentes, pelo menos na Islândia, lá nos aparece um livro de 2014:
“North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland”
Gunnar Karl Gíslason com introdução do René Redzepi.
René Redzepi foi para a Islândia em 2002. Lá foi levado a comer sushi, comida argentina, e outras coisas que já conhecia. E sua boca aguava ao ver a maravilha do lugar tão diferente. Mas a comida dos restaurantes era um fracasso. Até o dia em que Gunni abriu seu restaurante Dill, descobrindo aos outros as tradições perdidas, as velhas técnicas e mostrando a qualidade e a delícia das comidas de sua terra.
E Gunnar começou tudo em 2009, no meio de uma das maiores crises econômicas de colapso de Bancos da história. O nome escolhido para o restaurante foi DILL em honra da erva mais abundante do seu país e agora ele, Gunnar estava encalacrado naquele plano. Foi ajudado. Os fornecedores prometeram produto grátis até que o restaurante se pusesse em pé. Depois de meses, trabalhando noite e dia, o restaurante ficou em pé.
O que faz o restaurateur ? Quer se mostrar, como os outros chefs famosos do mundo, como embaixador, educador de um sistema de comida revolucionário, dando todo valor à sustentabilidade, produtos com pedigree, o terroir de sua nação.
Ele se levanta cedo para arrancar ouriços dos seus mares, procurar algas de uma praia de pedras negras, pegar azedinha da fenda dos vulcões. O menu celebra a comida de uma das nações mais sustentáveis do mundo.
As receitas de Gunnar são contemporâneas.Mas o livro não é agressivamente difícil para alguém que trabalha em casa e gosta muito de cozinhar. Na verdade os ingredientes são os de lá, mas facilmente podemos substituir pelos daqui.
Todos os utensílios do Dill são feitos por artesãos locais, a mobília é de Alvaaar Alto, e os quadros na parede de artistas locais. As janelas dão para um santuário de aves, jardins suspensos e estufas.
Percebi que tem alguns desses novos gadgets para cozinhar, os mais básicos, mas o que realmente precisamos ter para fazer comida levemente inspirada na dele é um defumador. Um defumadorzinho caseiro, ou um jeito inventado para defumar seu peixe, vão ser necessários. Na maioria das vezes ele queima feno e é com essa fumaça que defuma peixes e qualquer coisa que lhe dê na telha.
E adivinhem qual é a fast food islandesa mais popular? O hot dog.É tido como um dos melhores do mundo. São feitos de carne de cordeiro criado solto recheando as tripas. Pão artesanal com cebolas fritas e uma mostarda picante.
O livro para ser coerente é formado de entrevistas com os fornecedores. São eles que contam como fazem para criar os ingredientes que Gunnar usa. (A primeira coisa que me impressionou foram as roupas. Homens grandes e bonitos com macacões de alças, coloridos, interessantes.) E há entrevistas com quem salga o bacalhau. Com quem defuma os peixe, os que assam pão nos geysers, fazem o geyserbrad em buracos no chão quente, com o pescador, o colecionador de ovos de pássaros. Os que caçam renas uma vez por ano, os poucos sorteados. A carne é muito boa e cara. E os bandos de renas são lindos de se ver. Podem caçar baleias. Com regras muito rígidas, pesca que é tida como de sobrevivência. O fornecedor de sal. A leiteira, o criador de cabras.
Lembro de ter lido quando menina um livro de Pierre Loti (Pêcheur d´Islande) e a única impressão que me sobrou foi de uma terra escura e fria de pescadores. Vou dar uma relida e ver o que comiam, porque agora apesar de ser um pedaço de fim de mundo parece com a comida do Redzepi e outras mais.
E acreditam que tem floresta na Islândia? Pois tem… Cheia de berries e cogumelos.
Vou dar o nome de algumas receitas para vocês verem que dá para fazer:
Salada de funcho e salsão com vieiras
Peito de pato defumado no feno, purê de cenouras, e emulsão de ervas.
Carne de boi, osso buco defumado, angélica em picles, e legumes
Basicamente usa carne e peixe defumados, muito picles, e pó de legumes desidratados.
Dá para adaptar e fazer de tudo. Vejam por exemplo os pozinhos que ele gosta de colocar na comida. Gunnar guarda todas as cascas de legumes, de cebola, de alho, e deixa ao lado, secando, sem desidratar. Usa para chás e para defumar outras coisas adicionando sabor. Depois de secos guarda num pote hermeticamente fechado por umas 2 semanas.
Ah, adora beterrabas de todos os jeitos.
É um belo livro e muito bem feito, com receitas possíveis a um bom e curioso cozinheiro caseiro.
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Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.
Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.
Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.
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Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.
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Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.
The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.
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Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.
Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.
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“My dear Mrs. Budd,
In 1894 a friend of mine shipped as a deck hand on the Steamer Tacoma, Capt. John Davis. They sailed from San Francisco for Hong Kong China. On arriving there he and two others went ashore and got drunk. When they returned the boat was gone.
At that time there was famine in China. Meat of any kind was from $1 to $3 a pound. So great was the suffering among the very poor that all children under 12 were sold for food in order to keep others from starving. A boy or girl under 14 was not safe in the street. You could go in any shop and ask for steak — chops — or stew meat. Part of the naked body of a boy or girl would be brought out and just what you wanted cut from it. A boy or girls behind which is the sweetest part of the body and sold as veal cutlet brought the highest price.
John staid there so long he acquired a taste for human flesh. On his return to N.Y. he stole two boys one seven, one 11. Took them to his home stripped them naked tied them in a closet. Then burned everything they had on. Several times every day and night he spanked them — tortured them — to make their meat good and tender.
First he killed the 11 year old boy, because he had the fattest ass and of course the most meat on it. Every part of his body was Cooked and eaten except the head — bones and guts. He was Roasted in the oven (all of his ass), boiled, broiled, fried and stewed. The little boy was next, went the same way. At that time, I was living at 409 E 100 st., near — right side. He told me so often how good Human flesh was I made up my mind to taste it.
On Sunday June the 3rd 1928 I called on you at 406 W 15 St. Brought you pot cheese — strawberries. We had lunch. Grace sat in my lap and kissed me. I made up my mind to eat her.
On the pretense of taking her to a party. You said Yes she could go. I took her to an empty house in Westchester I had already picked out. When we got there, I told her to remain outside. She picked wildflowers. I went upstairs and stripped all my clothes off. I knew if I did not I would get her blood on them.
When all was ready I went to the window and called her. Then I hid in a closet until she was in the room. When she saw me all naked she began to cry and tried to run down the stairs. I grabbed her and she said she would tell her mamma.
First I stripped her naked. How she did kick — bite and scratch. I choked her to death, then cut her in small pieces so I could take my meat to my rooms. Cook and eat it. How sweet and tender her little ass was roasted in the oven. It took me nine days to eat her entire body. I did not fuck her though I could of had I wished. She died a virgin.”
Albert Fish