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Perfil Nina Horta é empresária, escritora e colunista de gastronomia da Folha

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A galinha

Por folha
07/05/14 02:02

Fomos andar em volta da fazenda, aquela fazenda do riacho que passava dentro da cozinha com seus lambaris e onde as mulheres arregaçavam as saias e lavavam a louça do almoço com os patinhos e patões comendo os restos.

Acho que essa é a imagem mais forte e clara que tenho de uma cozinha. Do seu forno varrido, lá fora ao sol, iluminado, em formato de zimbório, onde assava o frango esgoelado que correra curioso para ver as visitas. O palmito não sei de onde tiravam, mas aparecia imediatamente e era batidinho para ser comido com o frango e o arroz solto.

A cozinha de dentro era escura, com um armário de madeira imenso, fechado, que cheirava a polvilho e doce de mamão verde. O fogão de lenha, com estalactites de picumã, roncava baixo. Mesa comprida com a família reunida às sete horas para a ceia de mingau, biscoitão de polvilho, bolo e doce de leite. Era uma fazenda de cana, com moinho antigo, a imensa roda girando, já deve ter morrido de velho, desbarrancado.

Agora, voltando ao assunto frango, o que acho é que pode existir todo tipo de comida, mas nenhuma se oferece como o frango, não é uma oferenda feita por nós (até pode ser, também), mas é ele que se precipita para a morte sacrificial, tenho certeza, o frango foi feito para ser comido por todos, essa doação é coisa dele, de foro íntimo, pequenos dinossauros de canelas escamadas.

De todos os lugares do mundo, só não vi frango vivo no centro de Nova York, entre os carros, caminhando enviesado e com pressa.

É que já os fritaram todos no Kentucky Fried Chicken, ou por ser ave muito rústica, ama as estradas de terra batida, a terra mansa e morna, o sol que também é manso, o chão cheio de minhocas.
Divertem-se com pouco, já viram um galinheiro posto a dormir ao cair da tarde quando se esborracha um mamão maduro no chão? Saem todos, alvoroçados, acabou-se a noite, comer é preciso, num bater de asas espadanado, socorro, que não se pode perder uma sementinha preta dessas, per Dio!

E naquela pobreza inacreditável da roça de Minas, uma mulher sai de dentro da casa de chão de terra, brilho nos olhos, mão fechada, carregando o quê? Um ovo azul para o forasteiro. Sua única riqueza, aquele ovo azul.

A filha doente se arrasta no chão da cozinha, babando, deve ter uns dez anos como eu, que a observo, disfarçando a estranheza. Pois eis que ela revira os olhos em nossa direção e sapeca a frase que merecemos: “Eita, povo feio!”.

Na manhã calorenta a água de bilha, na caneca de alumínio, é a mais fresca e mata a sede. E o café é ralo e muito doce.

Tamanha generosidade que nos traz a vergonha de morar na cidade onde se contam os bifes congelados para o jantar. Vontade de desapegar, dar a correntinha de presente, o relógio, a presilha do cabelo, mas prá quem, tempo prá quê?

E lá no terreiro também tem a galinha, nervosa, para se dar inteira, se despojar das penas, esquecer do galo, morrer de amor com os olhos bem apertadinhos num último gozo, coisa mais linda, essa galinha. Se ficarmos mais um pouco, vai dar canja.

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