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Nina Horta

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Feijão dos outros

Por folha
02/04/14 03:00
Queria muita informação sobre feijão e ela vem chegando, inclusive uma receita de feijão com camarão da Monica Vogt, dona do ótimo blog Um Pouco de Tudo. É de avó portuguesa morando no Rio de Janeiro. “Cozinhar as cabeças de 1 kg de camarão no feijão-preto que estava de molho. Depois do feijão cozido, misturar com um vidro pequeno de leite de coco (será que coa?), temperar e, na hora de servir, colocar os camarões dos quais se tirou a casca, bem rapidamente.”
Ashraf Klink acendeu uma lembrança minha que havia esquecido. Ela sempre conta histórias do pai, deve ter sido um homem interessantíssimo e aprendi a gostar dele por meio dela. Pois não é que ele comia o seu feijão exatamente  como meu pai? E do jeito que mais gosto? Vejam só.
“Queridoca: meu pai libanês, o comendador Jamil, adorava feijão. Mas o feijão puro, só com uma ou duas pimentas-dedo-de-moça frescas. Cortava a pimenta, devagar (e a gente esperando, pra começar a comer), em rodelas, e daí colocava o feijão de forma generosa. Começava a comer e a suar. Pingos e pingos de suor, e tome feijão, preto, mulato, o que tivesse. Nada de arroz para atrapalhar a belezura de um bom prato de feijão com pimenta e uma cachaça do lado. Já o irmão mais novo do meu pai, o tio Ghassane, que morou no Brasil na juventude e estudou arquitetura, me ensinou a comer feijão carioca (puro, claro!) com suco de limão espremido na hora. Um pratão de feijão com caldo de limão. Uma superdelícia. Hoje, pra mim, se tem feijão, vai sempre com limão ou pimenta —e, em dias de festa, um pouco de farinha de mandioca de Paraty.”
Ashraf, você e sua irmã gêmea, Gabriela, escrevem tão bem, e o Amyr… Ah, todos adorariam um livro de histórias da família com passagens por Campos de Jordão, Líbano, Suécia, Noruega, Paraty…
O Gil Felipe mandou uma versão mais leve do que costumam ser os feijões ao forno com melado. Direto de Edimburgo, na Escócia.
“225 g de feijão-branco, 50 g de margarina, 1 cebola, 1 dente de alho, 400 g de tomate, 8 g de açúcar mascavo, folhas de salsinha, 1 g de sal, 0,5 g de pimenta-do-reino. Deixar o feijão de molho durante uma noite. Cozinhá-lo em água sem sal. Em outra panela, fritar, na margarina, a cebola picada e o alho amassado até dourar. Juntar os tomates em pedaços pequenos. Cozinhar em fogo brando por dez minutos até reduzir o caldo do tomate. Adicionar o sal, o açúcar, a pimenta-do-reino moída na hora e salsinha picada. Despejar este molho sobre o feijão e deixar em fogo brando por cerca de 40 minutos.”
Difícil falar em feijão sem falar em arroz. Quando atravessei o Brasil visitando as merendeiras, fiz uma enquete por minha conta do que se comia aqui. Cheguei à conclusão que andávamos por uma enorme passarela que cortava o país, atapetada de feijão com arroz. Sobre ela, variações, regionais, econômicas, de eventuais comidinhas. O forro, feijão com arroz. O assunto não tem fim, voltamos…
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