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Sobre fubás e memórias

Por Folha
27/11/13 03:02

Surpresas fora de hora. Hoje, no café da manhã, pousavam na cestinha uns pães pequenos de fubá. Uma visita simpática os trouxera, de manhãzinha, e, pra meu regalo, pude comê-los, macios e delicados, trazidos da padaria Barcelona. O fubá não faz parte da minha culinária, ou melhor, das coisas que fazemos no bufê ou que comemos aqui em casa. Muito pouco. Em compensação, tem muita polenta de semolina. Em Roma, como os romanos.

Já não era o caso das coisas raras que minha mãe, que era mineira, fazia. Por exemplo, farinha de cachorro. Também, era uma vez na vida outra  na morte.

Acho que experimentei pela primeira vez quando ela resolveu agradar meu irmão que morava em Londres e estava de visita aqui. E a tal farinha nada mais é do que pedacinhos mínimos de gordura de porco com um tanto de carne grudada, defumada ou não.

Pois bem, o fubá comum na panela misturado com o porco. E mexe, e mexe, e mexe que não tem fim. Acho que o segredo é esse, sem dúvida, ficar uns 40 minutos sem deixar queimar e a coisa vai se transformando, vai absorvendo a gordura do porco, a carne quase desaparece, no fim são pequenos pontos mais escuros no dourado do fubá. É de comer às colheradas, mas a ideia mesmo é que acompanhe o feijão.

Talvez sejam lembranças aumentadas por serem de infância, mas havia também o chá de fubá. Esse jamais vi em qualquer livro de receitas ou descrito por velhos caquéticos e saudosos. É para pessoas que tiveram qualquer problema de estômago e que estão fracas, sem poder ouvir falar em comida.

Ela misturava uma colher de chá de fubá em uma panelinha de água, com uma boa pitada de açúcar e outra de sal. E daí, o mesmo mexe-mexe sem fim. O fubá tem que cozinhar muito. O resultado é uma bebida quente, que não é doce nem salgada e que, apesar de líquida e pastosa, tem uma textura granulada lá longe, suave, e que conserta qualquer apetite desanimado. Tomar às colherinhas.

Peixinhos e quiabos fritos empanados em fubá também são bons.

E claro que, sendo de família mineira, ela fazia angu. E é claro que uma menina chata como eu não queria comer o tal angu com quiabos. Umas duas xícaras de fubá e mais ou menos um litro e um quarto de água. Dissolvia o fubá na água fria, levava ao fogo baixo e colher de pau para mexer, mexer, a mesma técnica. Até ferver. Depois de fervido, mexer só de vez em quando.

Quando começava a soltar do fundo da panela, estava bom, o que levava cerca de 40 minutos a uma hora. Não é bom secar demais. Despejava em forma de pudim molhada, aquelas de buraco no meio. Deixava esfriar e desenformava. Aveludado e brilhante, atenção a esses detalhes. Bom, só fui experimentar uns 40 anos depois, com galinha ensopada e quiabos, e choro pelo tempo perdido. De vez em quando, faço, mas, acreditem, no micro-ondas. Seja o que Deus quiser.

E mingau de fubá, já ia me esquecendo! Com um quadradinho de manteiga no centro. E uma amiga me deu um dia a receita da bisavó. Cuscuz doce da bisavó da Celuta. Na correria da vida, nunca provei.

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