COMIDA TEM QUE SER SEXY.
20/11/13 16:11
Fiquei esse tempão sem colocar um post que seja, de raiva, procurando um livro que acabara de chegar, o do Gramercy Tavern, que até havia prometido a continuar falando dele no blog. Sabia a cara dele , a grossura, abri baús, baguncei mais o escritório do buffet . Enquanto isso vocês me deram a honra de mais de 2500 entradas no blog. Nem assim ganhei do Xico Sá, imbatível o sujeito., como faço para ganhar do Xico Sá com aquela graça toda?
Bom,voltando ao livro, temos um senhor que trabalha aqui na casa, sempre sabe onde se escondeu um livrinho, umas folhas (porque é ele que esconde em lugares improváveis), e perguntei se tinha visto o livro. Para facilitar fui à Amazon e mostrei a capa. Foi, então, que por desencargo de consciência, resolvi procurar no IPAD. Dei um grito de alegria, um eureca, achei, seu Antonio, que delícia, quem diria.
Ele desceu, sossegado e minha filha perguntou o porquê do esparramo. Ele contou que eu achara o livro.
-Onde, seu Antonio?
-Dentro do computador dela.
Mundo novo, mas ele nem se abala.
Vamos ver o que o Danny Meyer acha que é “um grande prato”
“Para mim três coisas para fazer uma comida muito boa.
Primeiro-, ter que ser simples, pouco manipulada mas que deixe lembranças.
Segundo-,os ingredientes precisam ser daqui e agora. Nossa mensagem é mais poderosa quando os ingredientes são nativos da terra. Se me jogassem no meio do Brasil, os meus pratos seriam diferentes dos de lá, com outro gosto, outra emoção.
A terceira qualidade é o gancho, que pode ser uma combinação de ingredientes que surpreenda, executada com o melhor método que já se viu. Seria descobrir um ingrediente novo como brotos de angélica japoneses. Se você conseguir fazer tudo isso – passar uma ideia simples que tenha a cara do lugar e uma novidade que te faça murmurar, oh!, você contribuiu para uma lembrança duradoura.”
Seria uma feijoada inteira dentro de uma colher, como no Mani
Um peixe do tamanho do seu dedo mínimo com uma cavalinha que comi no Atala, que condensava todo o mar.
(Falo só nesses dois mas é simbólico. Quando me refiro a eles estou me referindo a todos os bons chefs de São Paulo.)
Difícil. As coisas precisam ser um pouco sexy – recebi a lista de um delivery, assim – arroz, feijão, bife acebolado e abobrinha. Credo, eu sei que todo o resto é frescura, mas eu não pediria nada dessa pensão. Preferiria uma arroz misturado a batatinha palha bem fina (a batata ao lado para misturar na hora) um bife de mãe, com um molho de fundo de frigideira e cebolas em pétalas, caramelizadas no molho, e a abobrinha eu dispenso, detesto, a não ser que fosse preternaturalmente crua, só passada na chapa em menos de um segundo, marcando-a de preto, como fazia o Mássimo.E o feijão, esse sim, só sendo bom já bastava, o conjunto enorme de qualidades que um feijão precisa para ser bom. Mínimas coisas que transformam o básico. Fazem de uma comida sem graça um prato sexy.
Essas tais coisas são os ganchos do Danny Meyer no seu restaurante de grande sucesso. Morou no Japão, usa missô, kombu, dashi e Panko. Panko já tem aqui para comprar faz tempo. É uma farinha de rosca japonesa, muito boa.
Faz picles de tudo, falei que a moda tinha voltado. O Benny Novak diz que vê a avó virando no túmulo quando alguém diz que picles está na moda, quando ela passou a vida conservando legumes em picles. A técnica deve ser mais ou menos a da avó do Benny – 3 partes de vinagre de arroz, 1 parte de água, 1 parte de açúcar, e uma pitada de sal. Ferva essa mistura e despeje sobre o ingrediente que vai usar. A maioria dos picles fica pronta em 6 horas, e dura, no recipiente fechado, cerca de 1 mês…
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