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Gente genuinamente alegre

Por Folha
06/11/13 03:00

Existe um livro do Danny Meyer que se chama “Setting the Table” (pondo a mesa) que comprei de burra, achando que eram arranjos de mesa, novidades. Era a filosofia dele que explicava o sucesso do Union Square Cafe, de Nova York. Excelente livro, ótimo para donos de restaurantes. É bem escrito e de muita utilidade para nós, donos de bufês, mostrando cada passo que Danny Meyer tomou para formar seu grupo de casas de ótimo nível.

Na realidade, todo “restaurateur” tem um blá-blá-blá qualquer para explicar seu sucesso. O Danny Meyer culpa o seu sucesso ao grau de hospitalidade que aprendeu a usar e a passar para seus empregados.

Pode parecer estranho, mas em toda a minha vida nunca me senti tão bem acolhida como no Union Square Café —e olhe que sempre sou bem acolhida em restaurantes. Estava com meus netos e nem sei aonde havíamos ido, provavelmente eu os arrastara pela feirinha de frente para o restaurante a manhã inteira.

Sabe aquela sensação desagradável, de sacola na mão de onde provavelmente brotava qualquer planta fresca e nova, e os três cansados; nada daquele esplendor pós-banho que um restaurante tão chique merecia? E, na porta, perguntei timidamente a um belo garçom que olhava o movimento da rua se eram admitidas crianças. Antes que eu acabasse de falar, ele já havia carregado um deles nas alturas e, dando risada, disse que entrariam se tomassem montes de caipirinhas bem brasileiras. Perguntou onde preferíamos almoçar, no bar ou no salão, sempre com uma risada, um carinho genuíno nos olhos, que oito anos depois ainda consigo lembrar. Uma coisa natural, como se fosse o dono admitindo no seu restaurante querido pessoas muito amigas.

Como esse Danny Meyer consegue transformar o poder da hospitalidade em negócios me faz babar de inveja. O conceito dele é radical. Combinar os elementos de comida boa e fina com serviço ótimo e descontraído. Além de tudo, é perfeccionista e não para de aperfeiçoar esse conceito em todas as suas casas. E o pessoal que trabalha lá precisa comungar com a ideia dele.

Mas como ele consegue contratar gente genuinamente alegre, otimista? E ainda recomeça a pensar que não basta ser hospitaleiro com o cliente, que é preciso ser hospitaleiro com o pessoal que trabalha, com o sócio, com a comunidade, com os fornecedores. Contratar gente boa sempre foi seu primeiro passo.

Os garçons e ajudantes de cozinheiros contratados devem ter calor otimista —verdadeira caridade, preocupação com o outro; inteligência  —não esperteza, e sim inteligência, uma curiosidade insaciável; uma tendência a fazer o melhor possível em tudo que fizer; empatia —saber como os outros estão se sentindo e como suas ações podem influir nisso; autoconsciência e integridade, vontade de fazer a coisa certa com honestidade e discernimento.

O  pessoal tem que ser alegre, feliz, bondoso, amigo. Tem que ter uma chama que aparece por fora. A vontade de ser o melhor no campo que escolheu. De preferência deve ter mais que um campo de interesse.

Não é fácil conseguir aqui tanta alegria de viver. Vamos atrás dela.

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