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Perfil Nina Horta é empresária, escritora e colunista de gastronomia da Folha

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O cheiro da palmeirinha

Por Folha
02/10/13 03:00

Se faltar assunto é só começar a se lembrar de cheiros. Todos os leitores se transformam imediatamente em Prousts, espirrando memórias profundas que dariam volumes. E tem um cheiro, do qual escrevi na semana passada, que não deixa pedra sobre pedra. É o das cicas da orla de Santos, as tais que lembram besouros esmagados.

Até o Ucho Carvalho não aguentou, “volta e meia escuto relatos apaixonados pelo perfume das cicas e me sinto feliz, vingado e compreendido, pelas tantas vezes que apelo a ele, quando falo da minha infância. Faço dele trampolim para voar na minha memória caiçara, mas quase sempre a plateia passa longe de entender o quanto cabe nesse cheiro acre.”

“A cica, a tal palmeirinha de sagu foi muito apreciada no paisagismo brasileiro do início do século 19 e assim virou sinônimo de exotismo daquele francesismo caipira que nossos avós cultivavam nos seus jardins. Mas, para mim, o vigor da lembrança do seu perfume, vem dos jardins da praia de Santos, onde nasci e fui criado. Palmeira elegante, fotogênica, cabe inteira em todos os fundos das fotos de infância, porque não crescem altas, mas largas e de tronco grosso. Com o calor das tardes de verão, assim que a chuva cai, ela solta seu cheiro tropical, que embora forte e arrojado, anda lado a lado com a preguiça e a modorra dessa época do ano.

Lembro bem de suas folhas brilhantes refletindo a luz dos postes acesos, de noitinha, na volta pra casa, um bando de crianças apressadas (ficaram na rua até o último minuto de sol) para jantar. Em março, tinha um espetáculo engraçado: o padre passava com seus ajudantes na casa da minha avó e rapavam todas as palmas de uma dessas imensas que se impunha na frente de seu jardim. Levavam para distribuir na porta da igreja no Domingo de Ramos.

A missa era divertida, com aquelas pessoas vibrando as palmas pro alto, repetindo os gestos do povaréu na entrada de Jerusalém. Minha avó achava uma glória, mas eu ficava com pena daquelas cicas carecas, meses a fio.”

A Ruth Levy: “Não compro nenhuma fruta sem antes sentir o cheiro. Quando era criança, cheirava a comida antes de pôr na boca, minha mãe ficava brava e dizia que era feio, que as pessoas iam achar que eu estava desconfiando da qualidade. Então, disfarçadamente, eu colocava o garfo na boca e levantava bem pra sentir o cheiro junto…”

Alguém lembrou-se do cheiro de bala de coco ainda quente, sendo puxada… Do perfume Bandit de Piguet que a mãe dela usava. Outra sente “cheiros até demais, conheço lugares e pessoas, livros e roupas tudo só pelo cheiro! Única coisa que gosto que não tem cheiro é a música, mas aí uso meu outro sentido apurado, meus ouvidos de tuberculosa! Coisas de míope!”.

A colunista da Folha, Suzana Herculano-Houzel, na mesma semana que falamos em narizes, nos convidou a testar nossas habilidades olfativas andando de quatro, como os cachorros.

Em algum lugar do mundo experimentaram e deu certo! Temos um belo narigão tal qual o deles. É somente requentar e usar! E aqui para nós o segredo das cicas é que são para lá de sexies!

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